Overview:
The Cowpasture has one of the least inhabited watersheds in Virginia. With an astonishing variety of terrain, from towering shale cliffs to verdant pastures, it is one of the most spectacular canoeing destinations in Virginia. Although the Cowpasture, like the Jackson, is afflicted by private ownership for much of its length, there are plenty of campgrounds, either on unposted private land or one of the many places where George Washington National Forest abuts the river. It is extremely rare to find such a scenic, varied, unspoiled river. There are only two significant rapids between Rt 614 and the James River: one near Rt 614, and one a mile and a half or so downstream of Griffith Ford, so the Cowpasture has fairly safe trips at reasonable water levels, even in cold weather.
Recommended Trips:
- (overnighter): First 614 bridge north of Williamsville to Route 629 or Route 39. At approximately 4 feet on the Clifton Forge gauge for the Cowpasture, this is a leisurely 2 day trip if you get an early start. If you’re scraping then it will probably take a full 2 days, particularly in winter. Plan on taking a little water in a few wave trains, and tie your gear in just in case. Scenery is spectacular, equal to any other 2 day trip in Virginia. Rt 629 may be an easier takeout than Rt 39, as there is nowhere to park at Rt 39.
- (day trip): Williamsville to 1st Rt 625 bridge north of Rt 39. This would be a relatively long day trip at lower water levels, but includes a stunning array of landscapes. Put in on the Bullpasture in Williamsville (at the 614 bridge) and float just a quarter mile to the Cowpasture, or put in from FR 282, just south of Williamsville. Take out at your fourth bridge, after going through a deep rocky gorge with caves and overhanging cliffs. Be sure to take out at the southern 625 bridge; if you take out at the one a few miles north you’ll miss the gorge.
- (4 day) Put in at first 614 bridge north of Williamsville and takeout at the Rt 220 bridge over the James in Iron Gate, one mile below the Cowpasture/Jackson confluence. Route 39 is the midpoint in this trip. The only hazard is a dam approximately 4 miles below Rt 39; I recommend a river right portage to avoid walking across someone’s lawn on the left. There is plenty of camping; look for small yellow signs or red stripes (both on trees along the river) to denote National Forest lands. Most of these are on river right, except for a recreation area off of Rt 632 between the Route 39 and Route 42 bridge, which also has a public put in. There is plenty of public and non-posted, secluded campsites to make this a spectacular four day trip. Plan on five days if you’re fishing very much.
- (day trip) Put in at Rt 632 (from Route 42 follow sign to George Washington Forest Recreation Area) and take out at Griffith Ford, both public put ins/take outs. Leave the whole day for this very scenic float.
- (overnight) Put in at Rt 632 and take out at the Rt 220 Iron Gate bridge over the James.
- Liberty to Rt 614 bridge: This half day trip can be combined with a run down Shaws Fork, which joins the Cowpasture in Liberty.
Directions to Put Ins and Take Outs:
View Cowpasture River in a larger map
First Rt 614 bridge north of Williamsville: From Millboro Springs: Rt 39 west for five miles or so; right on Rt 629; left on Rt 625; left/straight on Rt 678; right on Rt 614 in Williamsville. There is at least one and perhaps 3 parking spaces in the VDOT right of way on the west/south side of the river. Put in next to this pull-off, on the southwest bank of the river, upstream of the bridge. Good put in.
Williamsville: From Rt 625 take FR 282 east 1 mile to gate. Walk to river. There are good campsites along FR 282. Be cautious without four wheel drive. Alternative Williamsville put in: Put in below Rt 614 bridge right near Rt 614/Rt 678 put in.
Rt 625: There are two places to put in on 625; the southern one makes more sense in terms of scenic sections of the river to run. Park in VDOT right of way at either end of the bridge. There is an island in the middle of the bridge, so if you’re arriving at night you could camp on the island.
Rt 39: This is not a good put in/take out; ask permission of landowners on western side of river to park along Rt 39 at the edge of their property.
Millboro Springs: For folks wishing to do a two or three day trip from around Rt 39 to the James, there is not a good put in. Your options:
Put in at the small creek at the Millboro country store and drag/paddle to the Cowpasture, then portage the dam.
Put in by parking in VDOT right of way just south of the dam, dragging across a field that is not posted. Leave car in VDOT right of way.
Route 632: This is a good public put in; look for a large Forest Service Recreation Area sign on Route 42 approximately six miles south of Millboro Springs
Route 630/Griffith Ford: Route 630 heads east from Route 42 approximately four miles north of I64. This is a good public put in with pedestrian access across the river. Note that it is a ford, so if there is enough water to canoe don’t plan on driving across the river here.
Route 633: There is a National Forest put in at the one lane Rt 633 bridge approximately three miles from Rt 220 by road, and approximately three miles upstream of the Cowpasture’s confluence with the Jackson. Look for a parking area to the north of the river, with a Forest Service sign. The right bank of the river is also Forest Service land, with good camping.
Route 220/Iron Gate: This is actually on the James, about 1 mile downstream of the Jackson/Cowpasture confluence, and serves as a good take out for Cowpasture Runs. Be aware that you can’t drive down to the river without four wheel drive, but you can certainly walk the boat up regardless, as there is plenty of parking.
Liberty: Park and put in between Route 614 and the river immediately downstream of the bridge on river right. This area is not posted.
Route 614 bridge: Put in or take out alongside the road approximately a quarter mile upstream of the Route 614 bridge near Patna, where the riverbank is not posted.
Sections of River to Run:
Shaws Fork (Headwaters) to Rt 614 bridge above Williamsville: Probably by historical accident, the “Cowpasture” tributary is smaller than the “Shaws Fork” tributary where they cross under Route 250 in Highland County. During high water, a great trip runs from Headwaters (Rt 250) on Shaws Fork and continues on the Cowpasture past the crossroads of Liberty. See Shaws Fork entry for additional information on the upper section. Below Liberty, the Cowpasture passes over a couple Class I-II ledgy and boulder garden sections, and there is one braided spot that may be prone to catching strainers. This portion of the river is stunningly beautiful, with cliffs, hemlocks, sycamores, and occasional open pasture views.
Route 614 to Williamsville: Continual class 1-2 rapids, some strainers, not technical. 3.5 feet on the gauge is enough water to run from the Rt 614/Rt616 intersection to the confluence with the Bullpasture at Williamsville. There is one significant rapid between the first bridge crossing north of Williamsville (Rt 614) and the confluence with the Bullpasture. Run it center left; it is a class 2 ledge with a clear tongue and no difficult turns. 700 cubic feet per second on the Clifton Forge gauge is a good minimum. For an alternative and probably more accurate reading, look for at least 200 cfs on the Bullpasture gauge.
Williamsville to Rt 39: Water levels at 2.75 feet are adequate from Williamsville to the James. Between Williamsville and Rt 39 there are a few ledges, and paddlers should stay alert for strainers that may require a short portage across a shoal, particularly on the outside of bends in the river. Below Williamsville the river becomes more placid but no less scenic, with a succession of stunning cliffs, hemlocks, cedars, and open fields. The water is a piercing blue green color, and completely clear. Shortly below Williamsville is National Forest land on both sides of the river, with good camping and access to the Jerkemtight National Forest area, approximately 17,000 acres of roadless area. A little further downriver there is National Forest land on river left, in the vicinity of the Rt 627 and Rt 678 bridges. After the river flows under Rt 625 for the first time (2nd 625 bridge as one would drive north from Rt 39) it passes through private land until going back under Rt 625 some 4 to 5 miles later. After going through a couple beautiful gorges and around a sharp bend, the river crosses back under Rt 625. Approximately a mile downstream there is another good campsite, a flat ledge on National Forest land. From Williamsville to Route 39, 500 cfs on the Clifton Forge gauge is adequate, although this will be rough for the first few miles south of Williamsville.
Route 39 to Griffith Ford/Rt 630: The Cowpasture between Rt 39 and Rt 42 is one of the most scenic stretches of river in the state. Good camping can be found at the National Forest Recreation Area (and put in) off Rt 632, and on the outside bend of the river near Rt 631 and Rt 652; look for a shelf with evergreens where a little tributary comes in near the head of the bend, at the base of Beards Mountain. There is also National Forest land on river left downstream of the Rt 42 bridge, part of the Rough Mountain Wilderness area. The scenery from Rt 42 to Griffith Ford is not as pretty as above Rt 42 due to more houses and proximity to a road. You’ll have arrived at Rt 630/Griffith Ford when you see a very well built VDOT pedestrian suspension bridge and a ford. This stretch of river usually has enough water during the winter and spring, barring droughts.
Griffith Ford to James River: Less than a mile below Griffith Ford the river passes under the first of three rail bridges. Tie in your gear and get your life jacket, because there is a double ledge between the first and second rail bridge that could prove treacherous at medium to higher water levels. The rapid is just upstream of the second rail bridge. It should be run far left at lower water levels to minimize scraping. Downstream of the third railroad bridge you’ll enter more National Forest, with one good campsite on river left before you are within hearing distance of I64. A mile or so after passing under I64, there is more good camping on river left at the end of a fairly large island, in a grassy field at the base of a beautiful bluff that is part of Anthony Knob. There is more camping just a couple miles downstream of there, on river right just after passing under the Rt 633 bridge.
Liberty to Route 614 bridge/Patna: The diminutive Cowpasture joins Shaws Fork at the crossroads of Liberty in central Highland County. From that confluence it assumes the volume and characteristics of a mid-size Virginia mountain stream. In the first couple of miles below Liberty, the Cowpasture flows over many gravel bars and several enjoyable ledges. River-wide strainers are unusual, but there may be partial strainers in some parts of these class II ledges. In this area, the Cowpasture passes through a beautiful gorge with high cliffs on the left and attractive hemlock groves. A bit further downstream the valley opens up and the Cowpasture becomes somewhat braided. Expect to portage a strainer or two in this area, though they aren’t too dangerous due to the lower gradient. After this fairly brief, though still scenic, flat section the Cowpasture picks up speed as it passes under the upper Route 614 bridge. Between this first Route 614 bridge and Patna, the Cowpasture passes through some class II boulder gardens. The most exciting boulder garden occurs as the river runs up against the road on the left. This boulder garden is followed by a couple like it before the next Route 614 bridge, which is the last opportunity to take out before entering Bath County.
