Overview:
Dunlap Creek drains one of the highest, most rugged regions of Virginia in the western headwaters of the James River, yet it is not a particularly remote watershed. Its valley, along Route 159, is not far from the Covington, so paddlers on the Dunlap will encounter an unusual mix of gorgeous turquoise water, abundant wildlife, interminable forested mountains, and extensive redneck habitation. The Dunlap grows quickly from a small stream in the vicinity of Crows, at the Route 311 junction, to its confluence with the Jackson some 20 miles downstream. It is a worthy trip for paddlers who have visited the upper Jackson, Back Creek, Bullpasture, Cowpasture, and other regional attractions. Dunlap Creek does not hold water particularly long, and probably should be run within 36 hours of rain or during a period of snowmelt.
Recommended Trip:
Crows to Humpback Bridge
Directions to put ins and take outs:
View Dunlap Creek in a larger map
Crows: There is an informal roadside put in near a private bridge several hundred yards west of the Route 159/Route 311 intersection. There appear to be numerous other non-posted roadside put ins in the area.
Callaghan: One could park roadside and take out river right at the Route 159 bridge over Dunlap Creek immediately south and in view of the I-64 bridge over the Dunlap.
Humpback Bridge: There is a roadside park off Rt 60 one mile east of the Rt 159 exit off I-64. The park has easy stream access next to the historic Humpback bridge and has ample, though not overnight, parking.
Moose Lodge: Approximately 1 road mile downstream of the Humpback bridge take out a small road (on the north side of Rt 60 just west of the Rt 60 bridge over the railroad) goes downhill from Route 60 to the river and could be used for paddlers floating past Humpback bridge. (Note that paddling to this takeout commits one to portaging a large dam; see below)
Sections of River to Run:
Crows to Callaghan/I-64: For 14 miles Dunlap Creek meanders through a widening valley over small ledges, riffles, and boulder gardens, none of which exceed technical Class I rapids. The only hazards are a couple of wires strung across the river and strainers, which are most frequently located in the braided, pebbly sections of river where unstable stream banks topple trees across the river. Also be on watch for strainers that are prone to accumulate against private bridge abutments. Riverbed morphology varies considerably, ranging from solid bedrock, generally shale, to well rounded pebbles. There are a few sections of sizable boulders but for the most part the stream is unobstructed except by many small and some large islands. River velocity is high when the creek is runnable, averaging some three miles per hour or more. The water is transparent and turquoise, complementing the innumerable arbor vitae and white cedar trees that are more prevalent in this region than any other in Virginia. Though this section of river has dozens of modest country houses along it and dozens of fords and pedestrian suspension bridges, there is abundant wildlife and the water quality appears to be quite good. In one day we encountered a bald eagle, 10 pileated woodpeckers, two dozen wood ducks and buffleheads, several herons and kingfishers, at least a dozen bluebirds, many songbirds and a beaver. The streams wide bends across the valley create a pleasant diversity of streambank habitat, which range from open mature deciduous woodlands to sycamore-dominated floodplains to hemlock and fern-carpeted north-facing hillsides.
Callaghan/I-64 to Humpback Bridge: This section is only a couple miles but is substantially different in character from the 14 miles upstream. It begins with easy boulder gardens, then passes through a long series of Class I-II ledges with rocky islands and midstream trees. There are very attractive views of the mountain to the north. After passing under the first Route 60 bridge one will see a concrete abutment on the right which signals a potentially dangerous 5-6 foot high dam. Be aware that there is no slackwater backed up by the dam, which makes it more dangerous. It is possible to take out on the grass on the right and portage, though getting back down to the water is inconvenient. River left portages are possible too, though at higher water one would risk getting swept over the far left portion of the dam which presents a nice landing spot at lower runnable levels. At lower levels the center slot is runnable, though lightly-rockered boats will bust bow and stern and a hole at the terminus of the drop could swamp or flip less experienced paddlers. On either side of this center slot are potentially terminable hydraulics. At higher runnable levels this center slot probably isn't runnable safely, as the hole at the bottom of it could feed the hydraulics on either side. Humpback bridge, built around the time of the Civil War, is shortly downstream of the dam. It is an attractive arched covered bridge whose design is unique in Virginia. Nor have I seen covered bridges of its kind in Ohio or Indiana, where covered bridges are more common. Its craftsmen used elegant mortise and tenon attachments to build the arching trusses, and the cedar shakes covering it add to its beauty.
Humpback Bridge to Moose Lodge or Covington: I have not run this section, as Ed Grove and Roger Corbett note that it requires a difficult portage of a 20 foot dam and there is an unattractive industrial area where the Dunlap approaches and enters the Jackson.
