Overview:
The James River begins at the confluence of the Jackson and Cowpasture Rivers in the town of Irongate. From there it flows 80 miles through the Shenandoah Valley, first southeast to the town of Buchanan, then northeast to Balcony Falls and the pass through the Blue Ridge. If you float this stretch of river you may well see bald eagles, minks, and bobcats. You will definitely see numerous herons, kingfishers, bitterns, downy woodpeckers, muskrats, and songbirds. There is great smallmouth fishing the whole way, with the best spots being woody cover on the banks or eddies behind rocks in the rapids. The scenery is extraordinary, including rocky bluffs, old mills, islands, and the awe-inspiring gorge where the James cuts through the Blue Ridge. The rapids are generally easy, although Balcony Falls can be treacherous at higher water levels. I would recommend putting floatation in your boat, at least an inflated inner tube. I have seen multiple boats wrapped around rocks despite the relatively small rapids, and if you flip without flotation it may be difficult or impossible to recover your boat before it gets pinned.
Recommended trips:
- (4 day) Iron Gate to Snowden. These 75 or so miles can be run at a fairly leisurely pace in 4 days. Camp near Eagle Rock the first evening, near Buchanan the second evening, and somewhere near Natural Bridge Station the third evening to stay on pace.
- (overnighter) Iron Gate to Springwood
- (overnighter) Buchanan to Snowden
- (day trip) Glen Wilton to Eagle Rock
- (day trip) Eagle Rock to Springwood
- (day trip) Glasgow to Snowden
Directions to Put Ins and Take Outs:
View James River: Valley in a larger map
Iron Gate: A public canoe put in is located on the south side of the river where Route 220 crosses the James about 1.5 miles south of the town of Iron Gate.
Glen Wilton: There is a public put in at the Route 622 bridge in Glen Wilton, roughly 5 miles downstream of Iron Gate.
Eagle Rock: There is a public put in (with a road in very poor condition) on the north side of the river directly across from the Craig Creek confluence, which can be accessed via Route 43 in between the Route 220 bridge and the smaller bridge across the James in Eagle Rock.
Springwood: There is a public put in at the Route 630 bridge, just a mile south of Route 43.
Buchanan: There is a public boat ramp next to Route 11, on the south side of the river, in Buchanan.
Arcadia: There is a public canoe put in (no ramp) on the south side of the Route 614 bridge, located approximately 2 miles east of the Arcadia exit off Route I81.
Glasgow: From Route 130, turn south on Blue Ridge Road, which dead ends at the Maury just upstream of its confluence with the James. One can put in here or carry past the Maury’s rapids at the confluence and put in directly on the James.
Snowden: There is a public boat ramp off Route 501/130 where the AT crosses the James, just north of the Route 501 bridge and the first dam.
Sections of River to Run:
Iron Gate to Eagle Rock: Float about 20 miles to Eagle Rock area, where the river passes through a narrow gorge in which the small town of Eagle Rock is located. This stretch is quite intimate. The river is narrow and the water is very clear, with rocks of all colors visible just beneath the surface. This 20 mile or so stretch includes nice forested mountains and some rocky bluffs. You’ll pass two large islands and go under two road bridges before Craig Creek joins the James. Craig Creek, a major tributary, enters shortly before Eagle Rock. You will go under a fairly new two lane bridge in Eagle Rock, then float through some riffles before following the main channel to river right around an island. After you float over this little gravel bar look for a campsite. There aren’t good campsites immediately upstream of Eagle Rock.
Eagle Rock to Buchanan: From Eagle Rock to Buchanan is about 20 miles. Mountains surround the river for the first few miles. There are several islands and many riffly gravel bars. When you go under a railroad bridge that emerges from a tunnel in the right bank, you’ll know that you’re entering Horseshoe bend, which has pretty rapids, a hill on the inside of the bend, and floodplain fields on the outside of the bend. Once you go under the second railroad bridge you’re through the bend and headed toward Springwood. The rocky mountain in front of you, which has only a thin row of trees along the ridge, is Purgatory Mountain. It is visible even before you enter Horseshoe Bend. There is a long straight stretch of river from which you can see the I81 bridge in the distance. There is good fishing here in the woody cover along the shore. This four mile or so stretch of flatwater is very slow. After going under the I81 bridge, the river curves northeast, first passing forest, then a public field in the town of Buchanan. There is a good campsite on river left across from the field, in view of the town. Or you can continue under the Route 11 bridge and choose from among several spots in the next couple of miles. Buchanan has a good restaurant on Main Street. The gas station has basic provisions like cheese, beer, and bread. If you’ve lost your hat you might be able to find one at the antiques store. Note the suspension foot bridge next to Route 11.
Buchanan to Glasgow: Tie in your gear, as there is a sizable wave train immediately downstream of Buchanan, where the river skirts a high bluff on the right and narrows down. Then the land widens and flattens out for a while. Here you can catch a bunch of sunfish and some bass along the big rocks at the edge of the river. There are many good picnic spots on rocks and sandy banks along these turns. In just a few miles you’ll go under the Arcadia Road bridge, a fairly ugly new concrete span. A few miles downstream of Arcadia is a beautiful campsite, where the river falls over a couple of foot high ledges with an island in the middle. The campsite is on river left just downstream of those ledges. Look for a nice spot on the sandy bank if you’re going to camp here. You’ll reach here midday. If you camp here you will reach Snowden on day 4 with no problem, but won’t have too much time to hang around Balcony Falls. If you want to spend more time at Balcony, continue downstream. As the massive Blue Ridge comes into full view, you go under a road bridge at Glasgow, then soon come to a large, pebbly, forested island on the left. Land on the bank after going through the rapids formed by the gravel bar. This is a great campsite.
Glasgow to Snowden: Start as early as possible so you can see the mist lifting from the gorge where the James cuts through the Blue Ridge. Not far downstream from the campsite you’ll see the Maury River enter on the left. You’ll know it is the Maury because you’ll see a rail bridge crossing the Maury not far upstream of the confluence, and because the confluence is quite rocky. After the Maury enters, you’ll enter the gorge, and it is all rapids until you reach the dam slackwater near Snowden. Make sure you tie your gear down. If you don’t put floatation in your boat and capsize you may well lose you boat on a rock. The river can get real shallow in this stretch as it spreads out over a rocky bottom. Balcony Falls is on river left as the river goes around a big curve. The railroad on the left is supported by a stone block wall right next to Balcony. Pull up to the right of Balcony on the giant boulder to scout. At low water levels Balcony is runnable for somewhat experienced canoeists in a canoe loaded with camping gear. At high levels, where large and irregular waves make swamping probable, look for an easy route to the right of the big scouting boulder. There is a single narrow drop that is sudden but clear and easy when Balcony is too high to run with camping gear. It is also possible to portage over the big boulder. Once you’re through Balcony eddy out to river right of the rapid and swim through the rapid or take the inner tube out of your boat and float through on that. This gorge, both above and below Balcony, is great fishing. Cast into the eddies. After going through Balcony there is another mile or so of rapids, then the river flattens out from the dam. Take out is on river left. The official take out is just downstream of the Appalachian Trail bridge over the James. If you don’t enjoy paddling slackwater you can also take out about a half mile upstream and drag your boat over the railroad tracks.
