Overview:
The Laurel Fork of the Potomac is probably the most outstanding wilderness whitewater trip in Virginia. Between the Route 642 put in located in northwest Highland County and the Vance Run Road take out in West Virginia, Laurel Fork cascades through a series of small gorges and open valleys, with towering cliffs and sublime meadows undisturbed by development, logging, or roads. Laurel Fork is a joy to paddle not only because of the scenery and remoteness, but also because the streambed is generally bedrock, with a dazzling array of rapids ranging from long rock slides to abrupt ledges. With a watershed that has nearly undisturbed forest, water quality is very high, and supports a healthy native trout population. The rapids, cliffs, hemlocks, rhododendron, wildflowers, meadows, and oaks along this stream are extraordinarily attractive and incomparably remote. This vast roadless tract of George Washington National Forest is by far the most remote tract of public land north of the James River, and is worth a visit for hiking or fishing if Laurel Fork isn’t running. The only downside to this incredible stream is the frequency of strainers, due to its small size. However, these cannot detract from what may be the most rewarding trip in the Commonwealth. Laurel Fork runs fairly frequently because of its solid bedrock bottom. Laurel Fork gauge readings of 3 feet should be sufficient, if a bit scrapey, or just head out following a significant rain in Highland.
Recommended Trip:
Route 642 to Vance Run Road: Except during hurricanes, this is the only option for a trip on Laurel Fork—there are no other road crossings before Laurel Fork joins Straight Fork to create the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac River. This 9.5 mile or so trip will most of the day due to the need to scout blind drops and portage strainers.
Directions to Put In and Take Out:
View Laurel Fork in a larger map
Route 642: From Bluegrass, follow Route 642 west. It will turn to gravel, then cross Lantz Mountain and Straight Fork. After crossing Straight Fork (little more than a ditch), Route 642 will cross Middle Mountain, then descend to Laurel Fork. Park in public right of way next to the bridge, on the south/east side of the creek. Put in quickly and discreetly, as this area is in private property next to National Forest. There are a couple small cabins at the put in.
Vance Run Road: From Route 644 in Virginia, turn left on Vance Run Road some two hundred yards after crossing into West Virginia. There is a small brown sign with a hiker on it. This bridge is located right below the confluence of Laurel Fork and Straight Fork. Park in public right of way, using the gravel bar as a take out.
Section of River to Run:
At the put in Laurel Fork is narrower than most solo canoes are long. For the first couple of miles it passes over many small gravel bars with several strainers that should be fairly easy to see and avoid. Approximately one and a half to two miles into the trip Bearwallow Run will enter from the left, the first major tributary. There is also a small wooden sign on the left bank marking an intersection of Laurel Fork and Bearwallow trails. Following this confluence Laurel Fork begins to pick up speed and gradient, and one needs to be more careful about strainers. At present there is a series of three strainers on a wide bend to the left approximately a mile below Bearwallow. The final strainer is a large hemlock across a two foot ledge. At runnable levels some water goes over the top of this strainer, and the best approach is to charge and drop over this strainer, which creates a four foot high ledge. Be aware that shallow water on the right could create piton potential.
This drop initiates approximately five miles of fast, exciting whitewater. There are numerous boulder gardens and ledges. One of note is a two to three foot ledge with a huge boulder on river left that blocks half the stream. This boulder creates frothing hole in front of it. Run right over the ledge at an angle to avoid getting stuck in this hole; it is not too turbulent at the edge, but one would not want to experiment with it in the middle or left. This rapid is near a trail intersection on the right; one may be able to see another small wooden sign and small footpath.
Following this rapid and trail intersection, Laurel Fork cascades down a fifty yard long rock slide. Most of the water is on river left; stay in the right part of the channel to avoid scraping down the left bank. This cascade has no hazards or strange currents, at least not at lower runnable levels. Following this slide Laurel Fork bends to the right, passing through some more minor rapids, then passing another trail intersection, this time on the left. There is a medium sized meadow on river right, on the inside of a bend. There is a tree across the river, but one can go over it on the right or under on the left; it is easily visible.
Take heed at this point, however, because around the bend is a giant log jam. At lower runnable levels, one can slide up onto a gravel bar on the right. At higher levels there would appear to be no significant eddies or places to take out. On river right is a small cleared channel, but this could clog at any time, and is tricky even in lower water. If this log jam were to be cleared away it would reveal a nice boulder garden with an undercut rock on the right side of the main chute.
After passing this large log jam there is a series of great slides with terrific velocity. Then, all of a sudden, a significant horizon line appears, marking the largest rapid on Laurel Fork. This three tiered ledge has irregular angles that create tricky holes. Run right and brace well. Total drop is probably six to eight feet within a 25 foot period. After this awesome rapid Laurel Fork calms down for a spell, passing over several gravel bars, then careens toward a tremendous cliff before turning sharply right over a ledge. Be careful with this drop (recognizable by a large meadow on river right), as it has a tendency to pick up strainers that are not visible until one is toward the lower end of the boulder garden that precedes the ledge.
Following this ledge, there are some spectacular cliffs on the left. Laurel Fork make several large bends, many of which have more enjoyable class II rapids, before becoming braided in its final half mile. This braided section has numerous strainers and is extremely dangerous. Pick the biggest channel and be prepared to get out of the boat quickly. Fortunately, the misery is temporary, and Vance Run Road bridge comes immediately after the braided section of river ends.
