Overview:
The North Fork of the Shenandoah runs from northwestern Rockingham County east to the flank of Massanutten, then north before turning east to join the South Fork of the Shenandoah in Front Royal. Although it runs alongside or through mountains or agricultural areas throughout, the river’s character changes dramatically from its source in the highlands to its terminus in Front Royal. Before it enters the Shenandoah Valley by slicing through North Mountain, the North Fork is a pebbly little mountain stream, surrounded by mountains, populated with trout, and characterized by good gradient and velocity, though without major rapids. After passing the Cootes Store gauge on the western edge of the Valley, the North Fork widens and slows down, and the mountain views become more distant as it passes through farmland and the towns of Broadway and Timberville on its way toward Massanutten. After passing through some hills near New Market Battlefield, the North Fork flows beneath I81 and shortly begins making very wide bends on the western edge of Massanutten, where the river’s gradient and velocity decrease further. The wide slow bends continue past Strasburg, where the river turns east and makes a bee line for its sister Fork in Front Royal. The scenery is good for the entirety of the river’s course, from little hollers in western Rockingham to views of Massanutten further downstream. There are no dams requiring a portage until the river passes near Edinburg.
Recommended Trips:
- (overnighter) Yankeetown Road or Riverside Church to Route 11 (long overnighter)
- (overnighter) Yankeetown Road or Riverside Church to Route 730/Caverns Road (shorter overnighter)
- (daytrip) Riverside Church to Cootes Store
- (overnighter) Meems Bottom bridge to Edinburg
- (3 day) Cootes Store to Edinburg
- (4 day) Yankeetown Road or Riverside Church to Edinburg
Directions to Put Ins and Take Outs:
View North Fork Shenandoah in a larger map
Riverside Church: Follow Route 259 as far north as water levels will allow, potentially up to Bergton. At lower levels put in at Yankeetown Road, which is just a couple miles downstream of Riverside Church. Route 259 follows the river fairly closely so you will be able to judge where you can put it. You can park on the west side of the river at Yankeetown Road, but I’d recommend putting the boat in the water on the north side of the road, east side of the river. There is also parking at Riverside Church, the next road crossing upstream, up Rt 259.
Cootes Store: Park where Rt 259 crosses the North Fork, about a mile east of where the North Fork cuts between Little North Mountain and Great North Mountain, and just a few minutes west of Broadway along Rt 259/Lee Hwy.
Quicksburg Road/Rt 767: turn east on Rt 767 from Rt 11, using the Shenandoah Caverns/Rt 730 exit if coming from the north on I81 or the New Market/Rt 11 exit if coming from the south. Park on the north side of the road about 200 yards west of the river. This take out functions, but is less than ideal.
Meems Bottom Bridge: Meems Bottom bridge (Route 720) has parking and a convenient put in for canoes. Although the map says that Route 730 has an official put in, Meems Bottom is a better put in.
Route 698/Red Bank Road: It is possible to put in along Rt 698 at a small gravel pull pull off north of Mount Jackson. Route 698 follows the river for several miles; look for the spot where the river is right next to the road and someone has placed “Do Not Litter” signs in both English and Spanish. Other unofficial put ins along Route 698 are posted.
Edinburg: There is no put in on Route 675, so use the put in at the confluence of Stony Creek and the North Fork. From Route I81: follow Route 675 east into Edinburg. Turn left on Route 11, then look for a tiny sign for Water Street on the right. If you miss Water Street you can turn right on South Hisey Street to get to Water Street. Follow Water Street across a low water bridge over Stony Creek, then park at the confluence, which is apparently a public take out.
Burnshire Dam: Put in at Route 758 below the dam, and park in a little gravel pull out in VDOT right of way. The put in is on the west side of the river, downstream side of the bridge, down a small dirt path.
Route 661: Where Route 661 runs down to the river, there is a private bridge to the east side. There is no good way to put in or take out at this private bridge, short of carrying your boat up a small waterfall on a tributary just below the bridge.
Deer Rapids Road: This low water bridge with roadside parking makes for an easy put in or take out, and is the preferred take out for the overnighter from Burnshire Dam to Deer Rapids Road.
Sections of River to Run:
Riverside Church/Yankeetown Road to Cootes Store: The North Fork flows nine miles south and then east, at a quick pace over numerous gravel bars interspersed with pools. Fishing is good in the pools despite the annual fish kills on the North and South Forks. Note the tumors on the fallfish. Mountains and fields surround the river. If you are putting in at Yankeetown Road in the evening there are a couple good campsites on river right after the river bends right away from the road about a mile downriver. Rapids are class 1 at low levels. There are no large rapids except perhaps resulting from very high water levels.
Cootes Store to Route 767/Quicksburg Road: Although the North Fork runs close to several roads through this 15 mile or so stretch, it is a pretty stretch of river with good fishing, particularly where the banks are rocky. Camping opportunities are limited due to the proximity of roads and farms; I recommend consulting satellite photos and/or the Delorme Atlas Gazetteer if you plan on camping here so you can pinpoint a spot relatively far from roads. Negative aspects of this trip include some a smelly industrial facility in Broadway and some hideous sprawl on the west side of the river near New Market Battlefield. There is a nice cave just downstream of that sprawl on river left, about a mile or so upstream of Route 767. There is an old dam near Broadway and Timberville. Run it on the far right, where the drop is only about one and a half vertical feet, and the concrete is oriented in a curve that doesn’t create a hydraulic, then proceed down the channel on the right, which rejoins the main branch of the river some 100 yards downstream. Check for strainers here before running the drop.
Quicksburg to Meems Bottom Bridge: This is not a particularly notable stretch of river, and its scenic attributes are overshadowed by road noise from I81, at least when the trees are not foliated. Unless running this section as part of a longer trip from Cootes Store to Edinburg, I would recommend putting in at Meems Bottom rather than at Rt 767/Quicksburg.
Meems Bottom Bridge to Edinburg: Meems Bottom is a scenic floodplain with the old estate of Mt. Airy, tree lined roads, and the historic Meems Bottom covered bridge. The bridge, a wooden arch/truss combination, was built in 1892. It is an extraordinary span that is still open to traffic. A mile after Meems Bottom bridge the North Fork flows under Route 11 and the road noise from I81 disappears, even in spring before the trees have foliated. Pretty farms and views of Massanutten can be seen along the placid stretch of the North Fork between Meems Bottom and Edinburg. The rapids are all small, although there are a few ledges that merit caution not too far upstream of Edinburg. There are good campsites along the way, although many are fairly close to roads or homes. Although fish kills and factory farm pollution have wiped out most of the fish in the North Fork, it is still possible to catch medium size large and small mouths. Near Edinburg there are some of the best views in the area, as Massanutten looms over the North Fork. There are no hazards on this stretch of river.
Edinburg to Burnshire Dam (Route 758): There is a dam shortly downstream of Route 675, and immediately upstream of Route 758. It would be possible to put in at Route 672 and float to Route 670 for a roughly 7 or 8 mile day trip, but the dam below Edinburg and the Burnshire dam prevent longer trips through this section.
Burnshire Dam (Route 758) to Deer Rapids Road: This is a pretty 18 mile or so overnighter with great views of Massanutten. The current is fairly slow, although flat stretches are broken up with series of river wide ledges. There are some campsites along the way, although there are also plenty of homes visible from the river.
Deer Rapids Road to Strasburg: Neither Route 648 nor Route 55 are good take outs, so unless one is floating from Deer Rapids Road to the Route 612/Gafia Lodge or Bucks Mill/Route 610 take outs (an overnighter or long day trip), this stretch is not recommended.
